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Post by springerman on Aug 28, 2013 16:04:25 GMT
It has taken me ages to sus out how to attach these phot's. Who said computers were easy? Nevertheless, Photo 1 shows the original Mole Fly (As I know it) Photo 2 shows my variations. One with the feather sighter plus poly yarn and the other with just poly yarn, like the Klink or Para fly. I used the later yesterday and caught a Sea Trout (my first on dry) and on a Tenkara rod. I caught Brown Trout and a Grayling. Not a bad trip. The Sea Trout went ballistic. It was only about 9". Finished up jumping into a stream side bush.
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Post by Paul G on Aug 29, 2013 20:41:34 GMT
Boing!
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Post by orangeotter on Sept 4, 2013 7:38:47 GMT
Your variations look interesting Springerman and I'm not surprised they work. The way you've dressed them, I imagine they will sit 'shuttlecock' style, therein being the likely attraction. Your hackle is extremely dense which will make it float like a cork. I'm looking forward to trying it.
It also looks a very suitable fly for Duo style with conventional rod/reel, probably more stable than the usual Klink'.
Tight lines !
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Post by daves on Sept 4, 2013 8:43:56 GMT
Very similar in style to the Yorkshire fly, the John Storey, devised by the keeper on the Yorkshire Rye many years ago. THe John Storey still has a strong local following since it sits on the water with its body submerged & its highly visible wing clearly visible to the angler, also the fish love them. I tie them up for the chairman of the Driffield West Beck Preservation Soc. since he swears by them.
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Post by springerman on Sept 8, 2013 11:41:16 GMT
Glad you like them Orangeotter. Thank you for reminding me about the duo method. I use the small tippet rings tied in at the base of the fly, up until now on a Klink. I will have to dress some accordingly. I hope you are successful in your fishings.
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Post by orangeotter on Sept 20, 2013 18:18:35 GMT
I commented previously that the pinkie could be a good pattern for conventional duo/aka NZ style. I was teaching today and used it as such - considerably better than the usual Klink which often falls on its side.
I was watching the Oliver Edwards DVD recently on 'klink & dink' in which he made the same observation of falling over.
Your style floats like a cork - many thanks Springerman.
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Post by dbl on Sept 21, 2013 19:31:32 GMT
Any chance, springerman, of giving the dressing of your mole fly? I like the sighter and the possibility of using it in a duo. I need all the help I can get seeing a fly on the water! BTW, a dressing of the John Storey is given here: www.fish4flies.com/Dry/Winged/John_StoreyI don't know if it's like daves dressing? Whilst on dressings, I have some of Esoteric's eyeless Shinobi hooks and I am puzzled at how far round the curious shaped bend they would normally be dressed. Anyone know? (I have the bead silk and I think(?) I've figured that bit out.)
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Post by orangeotter on Sept 21, 2013 21:43:38 GMT
Hi dbl, regarding the body length - check the fly sets on the Esoteric site, I make all these. Let me know if you need advice on the silk eye.
Good luck,
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Post by springerman on Sept 22, 2013 9:25:53 GMT
Hello dbl, My pleasure to provide you with details. This is what I use:- Hook TMC 100 SPBL, 12-18 Tying thread....Power silk Post/sighter....Mallard breast feather, Wood Duck, Poly yarn or CDC. If using the feather/poly yarn combination tie the feather on top of the poly yarn. Hackle...good quality generic hackle, Furnace, Grizzle, Black etc. Body... Superfine, Hare, Rabbit, Mole, Pheasant tail. This fly is a template. You can tie it to represent whatever you want. Method. When placing this hook in the vice make sure you do not damage the special point. Tie thread behind the eye and tie in the feather, poly yarn or CDC. Whatever you use extends beyond the eye of the hook. Feather should be about the length of the hook shank. Tie in the hackle with the dull, (concave) side towards the eye. This gives a saucer effect to the fly and it sits lower in the surface film. 4- 6 turns of hackle. Secure the hackle and cut away. Dub thread with the dubbing and wind down to the bend, carrot shape, keeping a slim profile. Butting up against the hackle helps to maintain that saucer shape, (if that's what you want). Tie off at the bend and secure with glue/varnish. Not too much. Trim poly yarn if that is what you have used. Because orrangeotter reminded me about the duo method I have tied a small tippet ring in at the bend. This would have to be done at the beginning of course. That's it. Easy to tie. But you can alter everything to suit you. Hope you have tremendous success with this fly. Orangeotter.....any advice on tying a silk eye would be very much appreciated. Attachments:MATERIALS.docx (10.65 KB)
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Post by dbl on Sept 22, 2013 9:26:35 GMT
Orangeotter, thanks for the tip. I hadn't realised that there were such detailed close-ups of the flies. I see you finish opposite the point. I had tied mine a little short. The chunky inviting-looking olive caddis is not a tying that I know. When do you like to use that? Most of the others are already conventional favourites of mine. Wonderful tyings!
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Post by dbl on Sept 22, 2013 9:28:55 GMT
Thanks, springerman!
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Post by springerman on Sept 22, 2013 9:30:16 GMT
Hello orangeotter, So pleased the fly worked well duo method. I tied some, like I say, with the tippet ring at the bend and used it to good effect on Friday. Good Luck.
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Post by springerman on Sept 22, 2013 9:31:40 GMT
Hello dbl, You are most welcome.
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Post by orangeotter on Sept 22, 2013 14:31:15 GMT
Hi dbl, my chunky caddis as you call it will work anytime.It's slightly weighted with a strip of medium lead wire on the back, but only sinks to a reasonable depth. If you want to make some the body is Fly-rite #40 Caddis pupa green.
I dress them with a medium green silk eye and a touch of black varnish - peeping caddis style. Otherwise just use an eyed hook. The hackle can be partridge or small hen pheasant.
Good luck.
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Post by springerman on Sept 22, 2013 19:54:02 GMT
Interesting orangeotter, that you should incorporate lead into your fly. I have tied some of Dr Ishigaki's flies with a tungsten bead behind the hackle. The 2mm bead goes back over the thread once you have tied in the hackle but it looks a bit big. Helps to keep the hackle facing forward. A 1.5mm bead is difficult to get back over the thread but you can hide it with thread so much easier. I suppose it depends how much weight you want. Would a bead be detrimental to the overall effect of the fly in the water?
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